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The idea for this pattern began as I was organizing all the single skeins in my yarn stash (and if you just read “all the single skeins” to the same tempo as “all the single ladies” by Beyonce, we might be BFFs!). The three main colours just popped out at me and demanded to play together - sometimes the yarn KNOWS what it wants to be!

Have you been following the Scarftober series here on the blog? Every day this month, I have been sharing a new featured design by some of my favourite designers (and yours!). Check out the round-up page for more details and to snag some great deals that are still on for a few more days!

This pattern will always be FREE here on the blog, but for TODAY ONLY, you can get the ad-free PDF pattern for only $1! Check out the Scarftober round-up post for the code, then head to my Ravelry or website shop to get your copy on the cheap.

A pattern like this is such a good project to have on the go, because you can make progress one square at a time. I like having something like this to work on between my bigger projects, especially if I need a little bit o’ that instant gratification to boost me up.

Materials

Yarn: DK (3) weight, four (4) different colours:

• Colour A (bright purple, 228 yds/209 m): hand-dyed Swish DK from WeCrochet, 100% superwash merino, 246 yds/225m, 100g

• Colour B (dark purple, 177 yds/162 m): Smash Knits DK in the colour Artemis, 75% superwash merino / 25% nylon, 246 yds/225 m, 100g

• Colour C (light pink, 220 yds/201 m): Smash Knits DK in the colour Aphrodite, 75% superwash merino / 25% nylon, 246 yds/225 m, 100g

• Colour D (dark grey, 100 yds/92 m): Feisty Fibres Defiant DK, 100% superwash merino, 256 yds/234 m, 115g

Hook: US H/5mm, or size needed to meet gauge

Notions: measuring tape, scissors, yarn needle, blocking materials

Terminology/Abbreviations

This pattern uses standard US terms as detailed by the Craft Yarn Council:

Ch: chain

Csdc: chainless double crochet

Csdc2tog: start the csdc as per normal, but instead of finishing it, turn it into a dc2tog (work the second leg of the stitch into the FLO)

Dc: double crochet

Dc2tog: double crochet 2 together (decrease by 1)

Dc3tog: double crochet 3 together (decrease by 2)

Fdc: foundation double crochet

FLO: work into the front loop only of the stitch below

RS/WS: right side/wrong side of your work

Sc: single crochet

Sl st: slip stitch

St(s): stitch(es)

Sizing

Finished Measurements: approx. 60”/152cm wide, 29”/74cm deep at the point

Gauge: Do not skip this step!  This pattern is gauge-forgiving, but you should always make a swatch so that you can see how your yarn works up and blocks out.  This will give you an idea of how the stitches will look and how the scarf will drape (some fibres may give you a stiffer fabric).

Follow the Instructions for the Square in the pattern below and block it; a blocked square measures approximately 5.5” x 5.5”/14 x 14 cm.

Notes

Ch 1 does not count as a stitch.

When working the Assembly and the Finishing Border, try to work over as many tails as possible so that you don’t have as many to weave in at the end.

The directions are written with right-handed crocheters in mind.  If you are crocheting left-handed, simply reverse the side given in the instructions.

Construction

The pattern consists of squares and triangles arranged to form a repeating pattern of colours.  Follow the schematic below or create your own layout!

In case that text is too small, you will be making 5 squares and 7 triangles in Colour A, 7 squares in Colour B, and 9 squares in Colour C.

Pattern Instructions

SQUARE

Row 1 (RS): Fdc 18 and turn.

Row 2 (WS): Csdc, dc FLO next 16 sts, dc in last st and turn.

Rows 3-8: Repeat Row 2.

Border (RS): Ch 1, sc in first st and each st across the row until 1 st remains. 3 sc in next st. Working down the first side, 2 sc around each row end (the post of first/last sts of the rows). 3 sc in the bottom corner (the underside of last st of Row 1). Sc in each st across until 1 st remains on this side. 3 sc in the last st. Working up the last side, 2 sc around each row end. 2 sc into the same st as the first st of the round, then join with a slst to the first st. Fasten off. (76 sts)

TRIANGLE

Note: for the csdc2tog, make sure to work the second part of the st as FLO.

Row 1 (RS): Fdc 18 and turn.

Row 2 (WS): Csdc, dc FLO next 12 sts, dc3tog FLO, dc2tog (first part is FLO, second part is under both loops) and turn. (15 sts)

Row 3: Csdc2tog, dc2tog FLO, dc FLO next 10 sts, dc in last st and turn. (13 sts)

Row 4: Csdc, dc FLO next 8 sts, dc2tog FLO, dc2tog (first part is FLO, second part is under both loops) and turn. (11 sts)

Row 5: Csdc2tog, dc2tog FLO, dc FLO next 6 sts, dc in last st and turn. (9 sts)

Row 6: Csdc, dc FLO next 4 sts, dc2tog FLO, dc2tog (first part is FLO, second part is under both loops) and turn. (7 sts)

Row 7: Csdc2tog, dc2tog FLO, dc FLO next 2 sts, dc in last st and turn. (5 sts)

Row 8: Csdc2tog, dc3tog (first two parts are FLO, last part is under both loops) and turn. (2 sts)

Border (RS): the border is worked along two edges only.  Ch 1, skip the first st, 2 sc into next st.  Working down the first side, 2 sc around each row end (the post of first/last sts of the rows). 3 sc in the bottom corner (the underside of last st of Row 1).  Sc in each st across until 1 st remains on this side. 2 sc the last st, then fasten off.  (39 sts)

ASSEMBLY

Arrange your squares according to the diagram above (or however you have chosen to arrange them!).  You will work the assembly join on two squares at a time, and it is important that you pay close attention to the order in which you are joining, to make sure the end result will be the exact way you want it to be.  Ensure that your squares are all facing RS up, and that the direction of the stitches are similar (or alternating, like mine are!). 

This video demonstrates the technique you will be using to join the squares.  I recommend practicing first so that you can get an idea of the tension you will need.  You want to keep these stitches tight and even, but not so tight that they pull at the sides of the squares.  You will join all the lines going one way first, then work all the lines going the other way.

PART 1

Note:  Always insert your hook from the top (RS) of the work through to the bottom.

Start with Line A on the diagram above.  When you’ve joined all the squares along Line A, start back at Step 1 with Line B, then Line C, and so forth until you’ve completed Line F.

Step 1: Line up the very bottom square (“a”) with the square directly to its right (“b”).  Join yarn with a sl st at the bottom corner stitch of the leftmost square.

Step 2: Insert your hook into the corresponding stitch on the right square, yarn over and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook (creating a slip stitch).

Step 3: Insert your hook into the next stitch on the left square, yarn over and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook.

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 up the sides of both squares.  There are 20 stitches on each side of the square (18 sts between the 2 corner sts), and it can be helpful to count as you go.  Your final stitch will be into the top corner of the right square.  Do not fasten off.

Step 4: Line up the next 2 squares in the pattern (“c” and “d”).  Insert your hook into the bottom corner stitch of the left square, yarn over and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook.

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 along these 2 squares until the end, then repeat Step 4.

Repeat Steps 2-4 until you have joined all squares and triangle along that line.  Fasten off, and repeat Steps 1-4 for lines B - F.

PART 2

All of your squares and triangles should now be joined along parallel lines.  Next we will join along the crosslines, starting with line A in the diagram above.

Step 1: Join yarn with a sl st at the bottom corner stitch of the leftmost square (”c”).

Step 2: Insert your hook into the corresponding stitch on the right square (“a”), yarn over and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook (creating a slip stitch).

Step 3: Insert your hook into the next stitch on the left square, yarn over and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook.

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 up the sides of both squares.  In the very corner stitches of all the squares, there will already be stitches worked from when you joined along the other lines.  You will still need to work the joining stitches for this line into these same stitches.  Take care to make your stitches in these areas neat, so they don’t create unsightly bulk.

Step 4: Crossing over the existing join line, Insert your hook into the bottom corner stitch of the next square on the left side (“d”), yarn over and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook.

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 along squares “d” and “b” until the end, then repeat Step 4.

Repeat Steps 2-4 until you have joined all squares and triangles along that line.  Fasten off, and repeat Steps 1-4 for all parallel lines.

Proceed to Border section.

BORDER

The border looks very similar to the stitch pattern created by the joins, giving a nice finished look to your scarf.  When working into the “sts” along the top of your scarf, use your best judgement to ensure you don’t end up with puckering or stretching.  Stitch count is not important here.

Using Colour D and with RS facing, join yarn with a sl st at the top right corner of your scarf.  *Ch 1, sl st in next st.*  Repeat from * to * across the top of your scarf.  When you reach the corner st, (sl st, ch 2, sl st) into the corner.  Continue repeating from * to * down the side of your scarf to the bottom corner.  (Sl st, ch 2, sl st) into the corner.  Repeat from * to * up the last side.  When you reach the corner, sl st and ch 2, then join to the starting sl st with a sl st.  Fasten off and proceed to the Finishing section.

FINISHING

Blocking

Block your scarf by soaking it in cool water and a non-rinse wool soap like Soak or Eucalan for 20 minutes.  Remove from the water and squeeze out as much as you can – do not wring or twist!  Lay your scarf flat on a towel, then roll the towel up and step on the roll – this will squeeze out additional water.

Lay your scarf out flat on blocking boards or a clean towel.  Shape it so that the sides are all straight, the corners come to points and there is minimal distortion in the shape of the squares.  You may wish to pin your scarf in place; take care not to overstretch.

Let it dry completely, and then weave in and trim any remaining ends.  I leave this until after the blocking process to prevent any pucker or pulling that could occur. 

Tassels/Fringe (optional)

Feel free to add tassels or fringe to suit your taste.  Check out this excellent tassel tutorial!

Don’t forget to grab your PDF copy of the pattern!

Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, and make sure to add your scarf to the project page!

Can’t make it right now? That’s totally ok, I know how busy this time of year can be! Pin this one to your Fall or Crochet Pinterest board so you’ll be able to come back to it later.

Congratulations on finishing your Squarescape Triangle Scarf! I cannot wait to see the fun colours you choose for this one! Share your scarf on Instagram using the hashtags #SquarescapeTriangleScarf, #Scarftober, #CapitalCrochet and tag me, @capital.crochet!

I really hope you enjoy making this as much as I have enjoyed designing it! You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please credit me as the designer by linking back to this blog post.

If you enjoyed this pattern, why not check out some of my other Fall patterns! Make sure to use the bundling codes on my website or on Ravelry to save more when you buy more patterns.

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